May 6, 2002
Short Cuts
Living in the lap of luxury at Angkor Wat
By Steve Friess.
LAP OF LUXURY Even
in the low-budget haven that is Southeast Asia, grimy Siem Reap
is exceptional in its appeal to backpackers: it's easy to live
on the cheap as you explore Angkor Wat. Yet within a five-minute
walk from an unpaved alley of $2-a-room guesthouses, the elaborate
Grand Hotel d'Angkor offers its top digs for—are you sitting down?—$1,900
a night. The hotel has two 400-sq-m villas that come with everything
a Hollywood star or head of state might want: two bedrooms with
marble bathrooms, linens of Khmer silk and a private wine cellar.
Guests—they've included director Oliver Stone, supermodel Kate
Moss and Jordan's Queen Noor—are greeted with a decanter of brandy
and enjoy the attention of a round-the-clock butler. The exotic
outdoor pool area is so doused with pesticides that you can easily
ignore the fact that you're vacationing in a malarial zone. Book
early: both the Villa Uma and Villa Kama are often occupied. Meanwhile,
a few dusty blocks away, a more frugal traveler could use the
$1,900 to stay at the dumpy but popular Narin's Guesthouse—for
three years.
LUNCH BREAK Savvy travelers would think
themselves wise to eschew the tourist-trap lunch stalls across
the street from the entrance to Angkor Wat, opting instead for
a packed lunch provided by their hotels. They would be wrong.
Chez Sophea is a tiny gem not to be missed. Run by a French-Cambodian
couple, the breezy restaurant offers a delicious selection of
simple French fare and Cambodian specialties. And for special
occasions, there are always a few bottles of chilled champagne
on hand.
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